How Do I Bleed My Power Steering System?
Power Steering
A pump that was never properly bled will whine, foam the fluid and can look like a failed pump or a leak. This is the CVF bleeding procedure, and it needs to be followed all the way through.
Overview
Short Answer
With the ignition disabled and the front wheels off the ground, fill the reservoir, then slowly turn the wheel lock to lock 40 to 50 times until the fluid level stops changing and there are no bubbles. Only then crank the engine, and only after that start it. Skipping steps here can damage the pump and void the warranty.
Read this before you start
It is very important to follow these instructions and procedures entirely. Failure to do so could result in voiding of warranty and severe damage to the power steering pump.
- Do not start the engine until the entire bleed process is completed and there are no air bubbles present in the reservoir.
- If using a remote reservoir, the fittings on the bottom of the reservoir should be above the fittings on the power steering pump.
- If using a hydro boost system, follow the bleeding instructions from the manufacturer.
- Use only quality power steering fluid, preferably synthetic or one that is specially formulated for race applications. Do not use ATF.
- Do not reduce the return side of the pump if using a remote reservoir. Combination of line ID and fitting couplings should not be smaller than 3/8 inch.
Inspection
Carefully inspect the power steering system plumbing and ensure that all hoses are free and clear from touching any other part of the vehicle, for example not resting on the frame rail or gearbox. Also check that all the fittings are mated correctly and tight.
The bleeding process
Please re-read the section above before beginning the bleeding process.
Disable the vehicle ignition system.
Raise the front wheels off the ground and secure with jack stands.
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and fill the reservoir to the appropriate dipstick level, or 1/4 inch below the threads.
SLOWLY turn the wheel from lock to lock, 40 to 50 times. Rushing this step will result in repeating it. If the fluid level has not dropped, or air bubbles are still present, this indicates air is still in the system. A rise in fluid level is also indicative of air trapped in the system. Continue to cycle back and forth until there are no air bubbles present and the fluid level remains constant.
Crank the engine for 3 to 4 revolutions. Do this once the fluid remains level and no air bubbles are present, and while the ignition is still disabled. If the fluid level changes or air bubbles become visible, repeat step 4. Continue until there are no changes in fluid level or air bubbles.
Reconnect the ignition system and lower the car back to the ground. Start the vehicle and let it idle for 2 to 3 minutes while cycling the steering in both directions. At this point you should have smooth operation of the power steering and no noise. The fluid should be clear and free of any bubbles or foam, and the level should remain constant. If not, start back at step 1.
If it still whines
Noise almost always means there is still air in the system, which means going back to step 1 rather than running it and hoping it clears. Running a pump on aerated fluid is what damages it.
Why this matters
Air in a power steering system does not work itself out by driving the car. It foams the fluid, and foamed fluid does not lubricate the pump the way liquid fluid does. That is the mechanism behind most of the whining pumps we see, and it is also why bleeding is a warranty condition rather than a suggestion.
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